8 Things You Didn’t Know Your DSLR Could Do

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Great photography tips!  I had no idea my DSLR had that feature!

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As with learning any topic, students usually learn a tremendous amount of information about a topic for the first while, then they reach a certain level of competency and halt all learning.  The same is true with photographers when we get a new camera.  When we first get our hands on a camera, we spend every waking second learning how to use it and all the buttons and dials.  Then… we suddenly stop. But if you stop learning your camera too soon, you miss out on some REALLY COOL features in most–but not all–DSLR cameras.

This post will hopefully enlighten you on a few features that are commonly (but not always) put in DSLR cameras that most photographers don’t know they have.

Oh, and my favorite thing about writing this post is that I just CAN’T WAIT to read the comments.  There are always a few “know it alls” who have to share with me the fact that they “knew that stuff already.”  I get a lot of pleasure out of those comments for some reason… but I hope everyone finds at least one thing in this list that is new.


These are the settings I like so that my preview on the LCD looks closer to what it will look like after post-processing.

Custom Picture Controls

First, some background.  Picture Controls (that’s Nikon’s name for it) or Picture Styles (for the Canonistas) are applied to every picture you take.  The RAW photo coming off the sensor lacks contrast, sharpness, and color saturation.  In fact, it’s downright ugly.  Your camera applies these adjustments to each picture to pretty it up for you. I have never worried myself with setting the Picture Control because I ALWAYS shoot in RAW.

However, I was out shooting with Dustin Olsen a few months back and looked at the back of his camera to see how the photos were coming out.  WOW!  It was so much more beautiful than my LCD screen!  Dustin sets a custom picture control so that the photos on the LCD screen look more like how they will look in post-processing.  This helps him to visualize the finished photo.  Changing the picture control if you shoot in RAW will not affect the image you see on the computer, but it will help you see what you’re capturing on the camera. To set a custom picture control or picture style, go to your menu and find the custom picture control setting.  I like to use these settings:   If you shoot in RAW instead of JPEG, this is still true because your camera saves out a JPEG preview that is used as the thumbnail image and to display on the LCD screen on the back of your camera.

Multiple Exposure

Multiple exposure can be pretty fun for creative effects, and it is an oft-overlooked feature on many DSLRs (not all of them have this).  Multiple exposure means the camera takes 2 or 3 (or more) photos in a row and then combines them to create one picture. For example, you might shoot a runner sprinting down the track.  For a creative effect, you could set your camera to multiple exposure and lock it down on a tripod.  Then take three pictures of the runner sprinting by and the camera will combine them into an action sequence.  You can get the multiple exposure effect in Photoshop too.

Time Lapse

Sorry Canon shooters, your DSLR most likely won’t have this feature; however, most Nikon cameras come with this feature.  A time lapse is when your camera is set to take a picture every second or so.  Then, the individual frames (usually taken over the course of 30 minutes or more) are combined to create a video like this one. On a Nikon DSLR, you can find this feature on the menu called “Interval timer shooting.”  I wrote out a tutorial here of how to do timelapse on both Nikon and Canon cameras.

Time Before Sleep

Nothing is more annoying when shooting than when the screen constantly turns off while you’re reviewing images on the LCD screen.  I like to take a nice long look at the photos and zoom in on different parts.  I like to work methodically most of the time, and especially when shooting landscapes.

All DSLRs allow the photographer to adjust how long a photo is displayed before the screen goes to sleep.  I like to set this to about 10 seconds.  If you are short on battery life, this probably isn’t a great idea, but I always have fresh batteries lying around and use a battery grip, so I don’t really worry about battery life nearly as much as I worry about being able to get a good long look at the photos I’m working with.

Lately, I’ve been experimenting in working with an iPad so when I shoot a photo, it shows up almost immediately on my iPad (wirelessly) so I can see the photos full screen.  I have a step-by-step tutorial on wirelessly connecting your iPad to your DSLR here.   I love it for landscapes where I’m working slowly and really checking each picture, but it’s probably impractical for shooting portraits, sports, wildlife, or other fast-moving subjects.

Flash Compensation

No, not exposure compensation.  Exposure compensation is when the photographer tells the camera to decide the correct exposure, and then get either brighter or darker depending on what exposure compensation setting the photographer set the camera to.

Flash compensation works similarly.  The camera will determine how much flash output is needed, and then the photographer can set the camera to either give more or less power to the flash according to the look that the photographer is attempting to achieve.

When might you use such a thing?  I thought you’d ask.  If you’re using an all-manual flash like the YN-560 (see my YN-560 review here), then this is entirely irrelevant.  This is also mostly irrelevant if you are using an eTTL or iTTL flash because those flashes allow the photographer to change the flash compensation from the flash’s menu so you don’t have to go through the camera menu.

The use-case for this is when you’re in a pinch and are forced to use that blasted pop-up flash.  Photographers hate using the pop-up flash because it looks ridiculously ugly since the light is coming from the same angle as the camera and therefore not directional.  However, if you use flash compensation, you can control how much flash is used and achieve much better pictures when you’re in a pinch and you need to use flash (like when Aunt Janet hands you her point-and-shoot to take a picture at the wedding).

Depth-of-Field Preview

This feature is somewhat better known among photographers, but still the kind of thing that a lot of photographers don’t notice until they have shot for years.  Most DSLR cameras have a small black button on the front of the camera just to the left (camera left) of the lens.  If you look through the viewfinder and press the button, it will make the screen go a bit darker, but it will also show you how the depth-of-field will look when you take the picture.

The button is useful because, contrary to popular belief, changing the aperture setting on your camera does not immediately adjust the aperture in the lens.  The aperture snaps into place only right before the picture is taken.  This is done so the camera can gather as much light as possible for focusing before the picture is taken.  So when you’re looking through the viewfinder, you already know what the depth of field will look like.  Don’t worry about the fact that the viewfinder will be darker–this is just because the closed aperture reduces the amount of light going through.

Instagram Mode

Newer model Canon and Nikon DSLR cameras have begun to include “Instagram mode,” but it currently requires two tablespoons of butter to activate.  All you have to do is smear the butter over the front element of your lens and viola!  You have that “beautiful” look that only Instagram can offer.

Sorry for those of you who aren’t geeky and don’t understand nerd humor.  Instagram is a smartphone app for photography that puts some really overdone effects on photos so everyone can call themselves artists (okay, fine… it’s fun).

Back Button Focus

I get SOOO MANY questions about back button focus that I decided this one deserves its own post.  Learn about back button focusing here.

Using back button focusing can help get your focus more precise and faster.



  1. Erik Kerstenbeck


    Great article! I especially like the feature on my Nikon D7000, interval timer, allowing me to do time lapse without any add on attachments!

    Thanks for sharing

    Kerstenbeck Photographic Art

  2. inna

    love it! o my! about the instagram effect! that was pretty funny! can i use or buy a battery grip for my rebel the first one?

  3. Marc

    Some great ideas and things I didn’t know. How do you connect your iPad to a D7000 wirelessly? I’d love to do that?

  4. David

    Hi, thank for sharing. I am interested in Multiple exposure, does Canon 60D camera has this feature, if no how can I created the photo.

  5. Alastair

    Although the Canons don’t have a time lapse mode, they do come with software that allows you to hook the camera up to your computer by USB, and then set up and run time lapses using it.

  6. audrey

    great info, thanks. I never knew about the dof preview, how cool!!!

  7. World Traveller

    Thanks for the article..

    Question: Does the Nikon D5100 have a DOF preview feature (I know it does not have the button)?

    Thanks in advance

  8. Betzy

    That is some great info there! Not just your run of the mill beginner stuff that I was expecting. I found your article on Pinterest and I am going to enjoy reading more articles on your blog! grabbing my camera now to try some of these out! (especially the instagram mode!) 😉
    I’ll also be signing up for your newsletter! thanks so much!!

  9. Mirjam

    Hahaha! I had to chuckle on the part about Instagram. Apparently I’m a nerd..
    Great article.

  10. MicheleF

    Thank you! For the article and this site. I only knew one of these – and it wasn’t the Instagram one either, which I totally loved!

  11. Beth Wade

    Wow.Editing the custom picture controls is incredible! I never even thought to change them either (bc of shooting in RAW) but the sharpness and saturation change is undeniable. Thanks so much Jim!

  12. Amanda Berry

    Actually to do time lapse on Canon EOS cameras there are remote timers available these are basically a cable remote (although there are wireless ones to) with a built in LCD interval timer which fires the shutter at a pre-determined interval which can be from e.g. 1 second to 100 hours(models may vary) Canon’s own version is a little pricey, but as one might expect given the popularity of Canon cameras there are plenty of cheaper alternatives some for well under 20 GBP Amazon and eBay are good places to find them :)

  13. Cheryl Pierce

    My entry-level Nikon D60 won’t do some of the things you’re talking about here. You did, however, inspire me to dig deeper into what it CAN do. Thanks for always motivating me to learn more. I’m a better photographer because of you.

  14. Carrie

    Thanks so much for the reminders. I cant wait to try out the time lapse feature.

  15. Alexis

    Thanks so much for these tips. I already knew them all – just kidding! I’m keen to give them all a try! How does one move images wirelessly to a computer?

  16. rifter

    Check out Magic Lantern for Canon. IF you are savvy, you can hack your camera and get timelapse WITH bramping, and many, MANY other goodies that other cameras don’t do.

  17. Leanne

    Thanks for sharing! I will have to try some of these out! I would have never known about them if not for this article!!

  18. Lucy

    Great article! I found the part about Instagram hilarious!! I am not a fan of it and thought you where spot on with the description of how photos look with Instagram. Thanks!

  19. Cait

    Great post, very informative! Thanks for sharing.

    I know Nikon and Canon are the two most popular brands, but some of us who were poor when we got our first DSLR use other brands … like Olympus. Do you have any tutorials for those?

    Thanks :)

  20. EE

    I also love the take on “Instagram mode.” I’m a full believer in “just because you CAN do it, doesn’t mean you SHOULD do it!” I love your articles both for their solid advice, and the added touch of personality!

  21. Angela

    You’re right. I reached a comfort level with my camera and then just quit learning. You’ve inspired me to get the camera and the manual out again and see what else I can do. Thanks!

  22. Angie

    Thx for the great info. I loooove taking photos and have both Nikon and Cannon cameras. What app are you using on the iPad, that would be great to instantly see your shot on a much bigger screen. I will definitely put your information to use. Thx again! 😉

  23. Angie

    Thx for the great info. I love taking photos and have both Nikon and Cannon cameras. What app are you using on the iPad, that would be great to instantly see your shot on a much bigger screen. I will definitely put your information to use. Thx again! 😉

  24. Kaye

    I would like to know why it is considered there are only 2 brands of good cameras on this planet, ie Canon & Nikon? I have an Olympus E-30 and an XZ-1 and get brilliant results from both! How about some tips for Olympus fans out here? I love this site but feel a bit on the outer edge at times!

  25. Brian

    This caught my attention. “Lately, I’ve been experimenting in working with an iPad so when I shoot a photo, it shows up almost immediately on my iPad (wirelessly) so I can see the photos full screen.” Would like to explore more about doing this.

  26. DeAnn

    good tips. I’ve used a Canon AE1 over 30 years and recently bit the bullet and bought a canon T3. I don’t call myself a “PHOTOGRAPHER” I just like to take pictures. BUT… it seems like everybody is a professional. I can tell you off the top of my head 15 professional photographers that I know. I only knew one 30 years ago and he did my wedding…ha!

  27. Jacob

    YES! I agree so much with your Instagram feature! haha XD I am so amazed with these features. I did not know most of them existed. Thanks!

  28. Megan

    Bahahahahha I laughed so hard at the instagram feature one!! Thank you so much for these! I just bought a new canon and i’m learning all these crazy new things I can do with it! This whole website is very useful, thank you!!

  29. Eva

    You can get a cheap intervalometer to do time lapse with a Canon 60D (don’t know about the other Canons but probably).

  30. Jamie

    This is great, I can’t wait ’till I get my hands on a t2i to try somma these… Instagram, haha 😀

  31. Holly W

    instragram – that made me chuckle.

    great article; i didn’t know about the depth-of-field preview. can’t wait to get home and check it out!

  32. Ron

    I have a Canon T1i. How can I get my images to go directly to the iPad like you mentioned? Thanks for the tips.

  33. Katherine Collmer

    Thank you so much for this information. I have had my Nikkon D700 for 3 years and you have opened my eyes to so much of its capability in one blog! I look forward to receiving your new articles via email! Thanks, again!

  34. Jaclyn

    Great information! I am new to photography, and this was all great help for me! It is the single best tutorial I have read, and I have spent countless hours reading and searching for good, basic information to get me started.

  35. Lori

    I cannot wait to play with my camera again. Thank you for all this information.

  36. Jennifer

    Can you tell me what you’re using for wireless viewing of your photos on your iPad? Thanks

  37. Andrew

    With Magic Lantern installed you can do time-lapse on Canon.

    And it has dozens of other amazing and useful features. Incredible that one guy working from his bedroom can make Canon’s entire software team look like a bunch of simpletons.

  38. Patti

    Love these tips! Thanks for sharing. I will be utilizing the custom picture controls on my next session. That’s a cool feature. Also liked the Instagram comments! LOL

  39. Elaine

    Great info, there is only downside is I will not be getting much sleep because I will be playing with my camera LOL. :)

  40. Photogal3000

    Oh my goodness Thank you so much for sharing this! =) I just got my first DSLR and I am always looking for some insider tips on how to use it better. Thank you! My favorite tip is the movement shots

  41. aj anlap ツ

    hey there guys i need your help, everytime i put in my battery in my dslr theres a shutter sound and i could not turn it on. why is this happening? D:

  42. Cliff Smith

    Oh my I damn near spit my coffee out reading the instagram mode part

    “Newer model Canon and Nikon DSLR cameras have begun to include “Instagram mode,” but it currently requires two tablespoons of butter to activate. All you have to do is smear the butter over the front element of your lens and viola! You have that “beautiful” look that only Instagram can offer.

    Thanks for THAT! Not to mention all the other great stuff here!!

  43. Stephanie

    Thanks so much for the helpful tips, I’m so trying them this weekend with my family at the Beach :)

  44. Lemons

    Love this! Just got my first DSLR and have been devouring all things I can find online ro help me use it to its fullest. This is by far the most useful and easily understood tutorial I’ve read.

  45. Sam Ronicker

    Like everyone else I really want to know how you transfer photos wirelessly to your iPad!! That sounds awesome. I found a SDHC Wireless Flash Memory Card. I imagine that if you could get the card and the iPad on the same WiFi it would work.

  46. Brian

    Instagram Mode
    Actually this is a very old technique to give a ‘dreamy’ look to a photo. The only difference was to smear petroleum jelly around the edge of a filter placed over the lens. I think the filter is a better way to go as cleaning butter off a lens element would be no picnic.

  47. Mike Litoris

    The instagram butter comment is unnecessary, don’t waste butter, just spit on the lens… 😛

  48. Darlene Hanks

    I just bought a Pentax K30 a couple of months ago so I’m looking for tips, this site looks like it’ll be great. I hope it’s not too Canikon specific.

  49. Ron

    First off, I LOVE your write ups! I do need to correct your dig on Canon though.

    “Sorry Canon shooters, your DSLR most likely won’t have this feature”

    Magic Lantern adds this awesome feature to most Canon cameras along with many many many other really cool features the camera did not come with. Super easy to install and its free!

    1. Author
      Jim Harmer

      @Ron – You’re right that it is possible to add this functionality with a firmware hack. However, I think that makes my statement absolutely true… “your DSLR most likely won’t have this feature.” Since it requires a firmware hack, it’s pretty darn safe to say that this is not on most Canon cameras.

  50. Jen

    Hahahaha..laughed my ass off at the Instagram tip! Other than that..great tips for newbies. I look forward to the newsletter I just signed up for.

  51. becca

    Hello! I’m looking to get a new camera and am thinking about actually getting a nice one instead of a small digital type. Do you have any suggestions as to where to start looking? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

  52. Tandy

    Thank you for sharing all the tips. I learn something everyday…doesn’t always stay with me but I try

  53. Chec

    Anyone who has a DSLR should already know how to use their camera…don’t spend that money and pretend to know what your doing.

  54. Dave

    Becca, I’m a Canon shooter, so to start out I’d recommend a T4i with the 18-135mm STM kit lens. If you’re going to shoot family pics or kid pictures I’d advise you to pic up a 50mm lens as well. The 50mm 1.8 is a cheap/good lens but if you can afford the 50mm 1.4, I’d go with that. I personally use a Sigma 30mm f/1.4 most of the time for indoor kid stuff but I love the 50mm outside. It all depends on what you’re primary focus is… Canon has started to offer fixed focal length lens with IS but the prices are above my budget. Also, don’t shoot in Auto. Switch to Av and learn how to shoot that way. Good luck.

  55. Hilary Marks

    I really liked your video on “Multiple Exposure” so I went to my cameras and couldn’t find where the setting would be. I also googled it and didn’t come up with anything other than AE Bracketing for HDR. On a Nikon D5000 or D60 can you tell me where the setting would be. I would LOVE to try this out – Thanks

  56. Danny

    I can’t wait to try out my Depth-of-Preview button! I am a long-time photographer and look forward to learning more through your website.

  57. Mr. Martin

    Very nice blog but I have a question. Why don’t you mention Sony Alpha DSLR in any of your articles? What is your opinion about Alpha system and technology?

  58. Katie

    What are you using to get your photos to the iPad? I’m really interested in that ability!

  59. Fuad

    Eye Fi doesn’t work for DSLR’s – most of them use CF cards which are not supported even with an adapter: http://support.eye.fi/cards/problem/compact-flash-card-adapters/

    Plus even if the adapter worked I would worry about the write speeds being reduced. OnOne used to offer a great product that solved the iPad/IPhone remote view problem but it’s since been discontinued:

    However there are other products available that also address this, such as this one:

  60. Doreen@househoneys

    You are so right! I learned the basics and a bit (teeny) more, but my learning has all but halted. I’m determined not to let that happen with your help :).

    I have a few questions if I may: with regards to the custom picture controls, I’m afraid I’m quite confused. My manual references it, but there doesn’t seem to be an explanation of what to change it to. In your post, you don’t say what to change what to, so I’m at a loss.

    How can I tell if my rebel t3i has multiple exposure?

    I found the depth of field preview button, but other than turning things dark when the aperture is at a higher number, I don’t see any change. There is no change in any blurring of the background and in your explanation you said not to worry about the darkness so I’m wondering what is the purpose of this button?

    Thank you! I’m a new follower and look forward to learning as much as I can. (Found you on Pinterest)

  61. Nate Sterken

    Since no one else did it I will be the guy to say I already knew all of them.

    But I still have a question: my depth of field preview button seems totally useless. Meaning, I don’t see it when I push it, just gets darker. Would this have to do with the fact that I wear glasses but take them off when shooting? Cuz when I press the button, every time hoping this time it will work, I’m still as in the dark about my field of focus as when I started.

  62. V

    I know most photographers are CaNikon people, but is there some advise for Sony Alpha cameras?

  63. pam

    I am thinking of buying a Nikon 7000 what do you think about the camera.

  64. Tanya

    Love this post! Thanks for sharing….i learned a couple of new things…and I have been shooting for a long time.

  65. Linda weilert

    Really enjoyed this and still so much I don’t understand as I’m beginning my long over due hobby of photography. I’m thinking of taking a one on one class to learn my new sony a57. I do have one question that I have been seeking a answer too. I can’t find it on utube or any other sites. At what setting do I use for waterfall type photos where the water is shown smooth and not grainy? Thanks again and really enjoyed reading this and I printed it :)

  66. Angelina

    Hi :)
    When I read about multiple exposure setting I was so excited I was about to go grab my rebel, but then I scrolled down and saw the “sorry Canon users…” :(
    Love the page, learned so much

  67. Autumn Stokes

    Thanks for the tips! I have one question. When I try to set the picture control setting on my Nikon d3200 it won’t let me because it says this option is not available at the cameras current setting.

  68. Gina Kupfer

    Autumn, I also have a Nikon d3200. In order to change the picture control settings you cannot be in any of the auto settings. Turn your dial to one of the four manual modes and you should be able to change that setting.

  69. Sarah Macklem

    I already knew all of this. Just kidding. Thank you, I learned some new things in this post. It was great timing too, I just updated my camera so my learning hiatus has been temporarily lifted. Thx again. Sarah

  70. Theresa

    This was great stuff. I have a Nikon I LOVED and left it in the rain. It “appears” normal and never seemed like it got wet …. but it probably did … but won’t even turn on anymore. I finally went and bought a new Nikon about 2 steps up and it is an awful camera. It ghost shoots – taking random shots whenever it feels like it, sucks out the battery life lens goes in and out at will…. I swear it is possessed. Is there ANY way I can clean up my favorite one and maybe use it again?

  71. JohnnyG

    Hi Angelina,

    Canon does have the ability for multiple exposures. It’s typically called AEB ( Automatic Exposure Bracketing). What the author was referring to was time lapse. Most Canons don’t have an Intervalometer, which is what’s used for time lapse photography. However, you can buy an external one to do the trick.


    1. ezpop dunno

      AEB is not exactly multiple exposure. ME is different exposures created in one image without pp. My Canon 5d3 has this feature.

  72. Sunil Pratap Singh

    PhotoGraphy is art . To be artists we need to learn and understand depth of art . When passion meets expertise it becomes most powerful combination of success factor . I am not professional photographer or photographic artist, dont even have DSLR to click beauty of nature , but one day i will have one camera for my inner photographer then these tips gonna help me to start my journey in proper way, without wasting more time in learning technical stuffs thanks for tips .

  73. Ingrid

    Your page will not allow me to share this on my business page!

  74. Mel

    I loved this post! I never knew anything about any of this. I was looking for some creative ways to take photography and I think the multiple exposure will really add something unique to my portfolio. I also have been seeing amazing time lapse all over the internet and wondered how hard it was to do that. But now I know there is a button for it! Exciting! And that Instagram joke…priceless!

  75. Howie

    I love this since most of this I didn’t know and it’s a challenge to discover I how to use the functions on a Sony a57. Thanks

  76. Leena Lee

    This has been of great help to me! Thank you for encouraging me to keep learning.

  77. Blabla

    Nikon users don’t have the Magic Lantern who extende the possibility of the camera with a lot of tools like intervallometer/bulb/Advanced bracketting (with 3/5/7/12 images for perfect HDR or DRI)/Automatic focus for stack photos/many tools for video (scope/video format etc), focus peaking, etc

  78. Jenny

    I pretty much knew all of these….Haha! Just kidding! This is great info. I need to go play with these ‘new’ goodies on my camera. Thank you!

  79. Leandra

    How does it work sending your photos to ur iPad wireless how did u get that contected

    1. Aaron

      There are pros and cons to both RAW and JPEG. For maximum editing flexibility shooting in RAW is best but if you are shooting an event it’s impractical as they are quite large and can fill your camera’s buffer rather fast. I shoot RAW because I shoot still life and I can take my time. It pays off when I move them to Lightroom or PS.
      The best way I heard it explained was like this:
      A RAW photo is like an old film negative. It contains a lot more information than a JPEG file. It has to be converted to JPEG in most cases as well.

      I hope that helps. I spent quite a lot of time on YouTube and Google.

    1. Jeff Harmon

      @Bhavya, unfortunately the firmware that runs on the D3100 does not support auto exposure bracketing. Although not as easy, you can still do this yourself manually. You will need to use a tripod and either a remote shutter release or the timer feature to make sure your shots are all the same (which you would need to do even if the auto bracketing feature was available). Then follow these steps:

      1) Put the camera in manual mode.
      2) Set the ISO to 100
      3) Set the aperture somewhere between f/8 and f/14 (start at f/8 since this is usually the sweet spot of a lens).
      4) Set the shutter speed high enough to get a well exposed shot according to the internal light meter of the camera. This is your “normal” exposure, take the first shot.
      5) Be very careful not to move the camera and reduce the shutter speed until the light meter says it is underexposed by one full stop (-1 EV). Take the second shot.
      6) Be careful again not to move the camera and increase the shutter speed until the light meter says it is overexposed by one full stop (+1 EV). Take the third shot.
      7) Put the 3 shots together in software using Photoshop or other software on the computer (I prefer Photomatix Pro).

      This of course will only produce a 3 bracket shot, and sometimes that really isn’t enough to get a nice HDR image. If the scene has a lot of dynamic range (really big difference between the brightest highlight and the darkest shadow – like from a sunset or sunrise) then you may want to try a 5 bracket (0EV, -1EV, -2EV, +1EV, +2EV) or even a 7 bracket (0EV, -1EV, -2EV, -3EV, +1EV, +2EV, +3EV) shoot. More brackets can sometimes make the transitions from the really bright portions of the image to the really dark portions smoother.

      Also, I didn’t list it as a step here, but it will work best if you shoot these shots in RAW mode rather than JPEG.

      Hope that helps, and good luck!

  80. Angie

    I was going to try the wireless setup on my iPad but my iPad does not have an SD card slot. The tutorial shows that you set up the card via the iPad. How do you set that up without an SD slot?

    1. Jeff Harmon


      Is this an EyeFi card? If so, the way it works is that you put it into your camera and it creates a small wireless network that you can then see on your iPad. After connecting your iPad to that WiFi network then you use a special app from EyeFi to see photos shot on the camera nearly instantly. Does that help?

  81. Rebecca

    I never knew about the black button! I do always shoot in the raw though since I use Photoshop CS6. Thanks for the tips!

  82. Pam Wemhaner

    I got my first DSLR for Christmas this year and as you`’ve mentioned eating up the pages of my owners manual learning all I can about it. My intent is to apply my knowledge and actually publish some photos. In the meantime I`ve learned the value of back button focusing. It has made all the difference for me. Thanks for the tips. My next topic is flash compensation.

  83. Sandy

    Love the way you explain in layman’s terms, and your sense of humor! Thank you,

  84. {S.A.M.M.} Kim Smith-MacDonald

    Have you ever been in the realized atmosphere of the photo image of a person with an actual BROKEN SPIRIT? Their appearances vary so much, in their FACTUAL SOULS’ Longing to be where they know is GODS’ PEACE for their Lives on Earth, or else, they just WANT TO BE WITH GOD SO COMPLETELY. Wanna talk? <

  85. rick dalton

    I turn my LCD preview setting to “off”. If yours is set to 10 seconds, you create an image, and look at the back of your camera for 10 seconds, the repeat, right? If photographing a person, they pose, look at the top of your head for 10 seconds and repeat, over and over and over again.

    You see it all the time. Even with “pros”. I’ve never understood why. If you are in a certain location and don’t know a lot about exposure or white balance, you shoot the first photo. That is your test. If you blow it, you make the adjustments and try again. In a frame or two you know if your exposure and white balance are correct. NO NEED to look at any more images in that scene unless the lighting changes.

    Afraid of blinks? It takes less time to shoot another quick image or than to “chimp” (photo-speak for constantly looking at the back of your camera and saying, “uh, uh, ah, ah”.)

    If you are looking at the back of your screen after each shot, you are missing candid moments. I’ve watched semi-pros miss great candids while they were chimping.

    As you mentioned, leaving your preview monitor on drains the battery quicker as well. Since I shoot RAW and JPG, that is already a drain on my battery.

    It is a great teaching method to leave it off for an entire session. That’s how people did it in the days of film, and they had minimal if any metering capabilities. Great way to actually learn the craft in case anyone has a true passion for photography.

  86. RCS Optics

    I appreciate the great suggestions and ideas. As an amateur photographer interested in getting the most out of my Nikon D60, I enjoy nature photography but also want to learn about as many methods used in photography as possible.

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