10 Tips for Sharper Photos (Even when zoomed in)

In Photo Basics by Jim Harmer152 Comments

Photo by Jim Harmer

10 Tips for Sharper Photos.  #9 was the most helpful for me.  I never thought about that before.

Daily readers of this site already know how I feel about sharpness.   Sharpness is vital to professional photographers who make large prints, but beginners probably will not notice much of a difference between a razor-sharp photo that they view on a computer screen compared to a fairly-sharp photo that they view on a computer screen.  Nonetheless, photographers are crazy about sharpness, and I am too.

Sharpness Tip #1: Shoot like a sharp-shooter

Anyone who has ever shot a gun or bow and arrow knows that the key to shooting well is finding a firm shooting foundation.  Shooters do this by stabilizing themselves against a bench, using a monopod, or standing in the most stable positions.  Not surprisingly, photographers should use the same advice.  If you haven't taken a minute to consider whether your photography posture is solid, think about it for a minute and decide how to improve your stability.  If you don't regularly use a tripod, just do it!

Sharpness Tip #2: Don't zoom to the extremes

I have never tested a lens that is sharpest at the extremes of the zoom range.  For example, if you shoot a 75-300mm lens, you will get sharper photos at 280mm than 300mm.  The Nikon 70-200mm lens shoots sharpest at 135mm.  I'm sure there are exceptions to this rule, but I haven't seen them personally.  Almost all lenses are sharper somewhere between the extremes of the zoom range.

This is especially important if you are shooting a less expensive zoom lens or a kit lens.  Spend just a minute and take a picture of a newspaper taped to the wall across from you at different focal lengths and apertures.  You're likely to find quite a variation in sharpness levels depending on the focal length.

Sharpness Tip #3: Determine your sharpest apertures

Just as the zoom dramatically impacts sharpness, so to does the aperture.

Many photographers learn that the sharpest aperture on many lenses is f/7.1 or f/8, but it totally depends on the lens.  That is a good general rule, but it is foolish to accept this as 100% true.  Just take a minute to lock your lens on a tripod and shoot a subject at all of your aperture levels to see what photo is sharpest.  If you are a landscape photographer, you will likely notice that many wide-angle lenses are significantly sharper at slightly higher apertures, because they are made that way.  This test will only take you 5 minutes to perform and will improve your photos for the life of the lens.

To test sharpness, make sure to shoot from a distance that you commonly shoot that lens, shoot in lighting conditions similar to what you will shoot in the field, and do common-sense things like shoot on a tripod with a cable release and mirror lock-up.

This test was performed on a Nikkor 70-200mm lens at 200mm.

This test was performed on a Nikkor 70-200mm lens at 200mm.

Sharpness Tip #4: Do Your Output Sharpening Last

Unfortunately, many photographers use the sharpness slider in Camera Raw or Lightroom first thing. I strongly discourage this technique because sharpening should match the medium, or be applied selectively.

Photos should be sharpened differently for the use on the web as they are for print.  For example, when saving a photo that will be displayed on a computer (like posting a photo to Facebook, for instance), less sharpening is needed because a screen is a sharp output medium.  When saving a photo for matte paper, more sharpening should be applied than when printing on glossy paper because the matte paper soaks the ink more than the glossy does.

Also, a photo that will be seen small should be sharpened differently than photos that will be seen large.  It just doesn't make sense to sharpen before finishing the editing process.  This way, you'll be able to go back and re-sharpen the photo in a different way when you want to use that photo for a new purpose without needing to re-do all of the other edits done in Photoshop.

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Sharpness Tip #5: Stop mashing your shutter button

In my photography workshops, I see many photographers smash their shutter button with more force than they would smash a cockroach.  Mashing the shutter button will torque the camera at the critical moment when the photo is recording the scene.  The proper way to press a shutter button is to simply roll your finger back across the button.

Sharpness Tip #6: Pick up the manual for your LENS

The lens manual will tell you whether or not to use image stabilization (vibration reduction for us Nikon folks) when the camera is on a tripod.  Some lenses should have vibration reduction ON when using a tripod, and other lenses should have image stabilization turned off when on a tripod.

Lenses made in the last couple of years will make this switch for you, but you'd probably be surprised by looking at the manual for your lens to find that many lenses that you think may be turning this off for you… are not.  The only way to know is to check the lens manual.

Sharpness Tip #7: Decrease Your ISO

Photographers know that increasing your ISO increases the noise in the photo, but their knowledge usually stops there.  Did you also realize that increasing the ISO also dramatically reduces the visible detail in the photo?  When I say “dramatically,” I mean dramatically!

When you're in a situation where you have to increase your ISO beyond where you're comfortable, consider adding flash or moving to an area with better lighting to produce a sharper shot.

Sharpness Tip #8: Test different copies of a lens

When lenses are created, they are made to certain tolerances.  Especially in the case of lower-end lenses, the tolerances are not precise and allow for size variances.  For this reason, one lens may shoot better on one camera than another.  Make sure the lens is working well for your camera.  If it isn't, you might consider returning the lens and buying another copy of the exact same lens model and see if it works better.

Sharpness Tip #9: Know Your Focus

I've given portfolio reviews to THOUSANDS of photographers in my online photography classes just in the last year.  THOUSANDS!  When they ask me about the sharpness of their photos and how they can improve, the problem is imprecise focus at least 95% of the time.

So here's my recipe for proper focus every time…

#1. Decide if you are shooting an action photo or a photo with a stationary subject.  If you're shooting a moving subject, choose continuous focus (AI servo on Canon or AF-C on Nikon).  If you're shooting a stationary subject like a landscape or a person standing mostly still, choose AF-S on a Nikon or Single Servo on a Canon.

#2. Always choose the focus point yourself.  Don't let the camera decide.  Get used to moving the focus point with the four-way selector on the back of your camera.  If you're shooting a portrait, ALWAYS place the focus on the eye of the person closest to the camera.  On the nose or face or body of the person is not good enough.  Always focus on the eye.  If you're shooting a landscape, generally focus one-third up from the bottom of the frame, but if you have a strong foreground element, you may want to focus closer.

#3. Once you've focused, be extremely careful not to sway forward or backward at all.  When shooting with a fast lens at a wide f-stop, even a slight movement will move the focus before the shot.

#4. Be sure not to focus too close to the lens.  Each lens has a close focus distance, and the camera manufacturers like to push the envelope with this distance.  I usually find that if I focus right at the closest point where the lens will still focus, the result is a blurry shot.  Back up a little bit from the closest you can be to the subject and you'll always improve the result.

Sharpness Tip #10: Upgrade your shutter button

Less expensive cameras come with either a metal or plastic shutter button.  It does the job just fine, but it encourages the poor habit of “clicking” or “mashing” the shutter button.  More expensive cameras like the 5D Mark III, Nikon D810, etc, have squishy shutter buttons with a rubber coating on top so that the press of the button does not vibrate the camera as much.

For only a few dollars, you can pick up a rubber pad to fit over your shutter button which will solve this problem and upgrade your shutter button for you.

It can be tough to tell how sharp a shot is when looking at the back of the camera. Zoom in all the way on the eye and the difference is easy to see.

It can be tough to tell how sharp a shot is when looking at the back of the camera. Zoom in all the way on the eye and the difference is easy to see.

Bonus Tip: Zoom to the Eyes!

The best way to know if you have a sharp photo while shooting is to zoom in on a picture you've just taken all the way to 100%.  Zoom in on the eyes and see if you can see the eyelashes.  If the eyelashes are just a clump of black, the photo is not sharp.  If you can see each hair in the eyelash, you have a sharp shot.

If you have more sharpness tips, please share it with the rest of the Improve Photography community by leaving a comment below.

About the Author

Jim Harmer

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Jim Harmer is the founder of Improve Photography, and host of the popular Improve Photography Podcast. More than a million photographers follow him on social media, and he has been listed at #35 in rankings of the most popular photographers in the world. He blogs about how to start an internet business on IncomeSchool.com..


  1. Amazing tutorial….So loaded.Many thanks…Never understood photo sharpness as I have after reading your article…Again many thanks.

    Alex Gabriel

  2. From Tip#9: ” Always choose the focus point yourself. Don’t let the camera decide. Get used to moving the focus point with the four-way selector on the back of your camera. If you’re shooting a portrait, ALWAYS place the focus on the eye of the person closest to the camera.”

    What should you do when your camera doesn’t have enough focus points to choose from meaning none of them are on the eyes of the subject? Is it ok to use spot focusing on the eye and and recompose the scene for each shot?

  3. I find these tips very helpful, and each well explained. I am sure each point can be fleshed out a bit more, but these tips are best I’ve heard on this topic. Thank you. Frustrating, though, that most zooms are not sharp fully extended. Why buy an expensive zoom if you can’t use it to the max? Nonetheless, very helpful.

  4. Wow! Thanks so much for the info. I struggle with this quite a bit and have read lots of different sites that pretty much say the same thing. This post has info I’ve never heard and explains the info I have heard so it makes sense! I too feel like I don’t have enough focus points to be spot on without recomposing. I also have been taking pictures of kids a lot and find it hard to switch focus points and focus quickly enough. I’ll keep practicing and check out the rubber cover for the shutter button. Thank you!

  5. And for some super-geeky tips:
    1) Learn your camera’s focus sensor types. Vertical, horizontal and cross (and how the first two “change” when you tilt your camera 90 degrees). Focusing on the eyes is difficult when the lashes are the predominant lines apparent to the focus sensor, and the focus sensor is trying to apply a horizontal lock to vertical lines.
    2) Test your lens’ focus distance error, and if your camera allows for it, dial in a compensation factor. My D7000 and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1:1.4G as uncorrected end up focusing behind the intended focus point enough to destroy sharpness (I’d focus on the eyes, but the hair behind the ear would be the sharpest, ARRRGGH!). I laid out a tape measure on a table perpendicular to the lens, focused on a spot about 6 feet away and did test shots, adjusting the in-camera focus compensation in between until the spot I was actually focusing on was as sharp as I could get it. You can buy special ruler rigs just for doing this, (or send your rig back to the manufacturer if under warranty for adjustment) but they were more than I was willing to spend.

  6. Great article with a lot of good information. I admit when I started reading it seemed very basic and I (like everyone else) pretend to be beyond basics. However, going back to basics for a refresher is never a bad thing. I say that to say this, it turns out I am a masher not a roller. Thanks for giving me something NEW to work on!

  7. If you have your subject far enough away from the background, you will still have the bokeh you are looking for. 🙂 Even at f7.0

  8. There are dozens of DIY constructs that do not require cash for AF fine tune correction, some lenses front focus or back focus for whatever reason.

    [link removed as violation of comment policy]

    There are also commercial offerings that allow fully automated AF fine tune calibration and testing.

  9. Tip #12:
    When shooting handheld, never shoot below 1/200 of a second. 1/100 seems good enough, but when you zoom in, there is a dramatic difference in sharpness.

  10. Tip #13 Use Flash to freeze the action. A flash often fires a lot quicker than your shutter speed. In certain dark/difficult shooting situations, a pop of flash will “freeze” the subject and allow you to push your shutter down to 1/60. Remember, that’s only if you absolutely, positively have to take a shot, and you can’t control the lighting in a better way.

  11. Good tips in this article!

    I read that using the electronic shutter helps to eliminate camera shake to get sharper images and works better than just using mirror lockup when using a tripod.

    I also read about using a table tripod on the camera and brace it against your chest to help hold the camera steadier.

  12. what is hte sharpest focal length and zoom for nikon 24-70mm 2.8 lense. i use this lense on nikon d610. very hard to get a sharp picture as i expect.

  13. I use a Canon Eos 60D and it has optical image stabalizing (i am sure many do) the trick i learned is very much like when firing a rifle. gradually squeeze the trigger, the system spins up the lens and then can take the better sharper shots. if you just hammer the button, the system can’t help. There ARE times when you have to fire off a snap shot, but take several and hopefully the system can get you a better shop on at least one.
    When i shoot night shots on a tripod, i look through the viewfinder but i keep a bit of space so that i don’t bump anything. as i gradually squeeze the remote, it takes a half second for the stabalizer and you can see the image waver slightly when it does. then the shots are crisp.
    I have applied this to most of my regular shots and get the sharpness i want.

  14. It obviously depends on the focal length of the lens, and also te vibrations of the camera model. Mirrorless ar more forgiving in that.

  15. I use a Nikon d7000 with 35mm and 18-105mm lens. I noticed that sometimes manually focusing will give you a sharper image that using the auto focus.

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