Episode 14: Upgrading cameras, Lightroom and Photoshop, memory cards, and more!

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In Episode 14 of the Improve Photography Podcast, Jim and Dustin answer listener questions about when to upgrade your camera or lens, the benefits of Lightroom and Photoshop, shooting in an alley, buying memory cards, and more!

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Guide to Episode 14

[0:45] Jim and Dustin discuss Canon image sensor similarities among several Canon cameras.

Canon has had the same sensor in some of its cameras for so long – the Canon T2i, Canon T3i, Canon T4i, Canon 60D, and Canon 7D all have similar specs, and Jim suspects that the same sensors are being rotated into each of these cameras. There are lots of differences between the cameras, but as far as the image sensor is concerned, it appears that they are all the same.

Read more on this topic here.

[5:06]  What is the benefit for beginning photographers of purchasing Lightroom or Photoshop over just using the on-board photo editing program available through Windows?

There is a night and day difference between the on-board programs that come with your typical computer and the industry leaders (like Lightroom and Photoshop). In these advanced programs (which you can purchase for a bit over $100), you will find so many features that it will take you a lifetime to learn how to use them all. You can adjust things in so many more ways using these features.

If you’re thinking about purchasing some photo editing software, download the free 30 day trial and try it first. You will love it and you won’t ever want to go back to the on-board programs.

[7:41] I have a Nikon D90 with an 80-200 f/2.8, and I’m thinking about upgrading to the Nikon D600 or Nikon D800. At the highest ISO settings would I see a dramatic improvement, making it worth the price of upgrading?

When you have specific requirements such as this listener (who is shooting indoor swim meets), it can be a valid decision to move up. Indoor shooting needs good low-light performance. In terms of the low-light performance, the D800 and D600 are very close, though the D600 takes the cake a little bit.

However, in terms of speed, Jim writes off the D800 because, while it’s excellent, when you’re shooting sports you want a faster frame-rate than the D800 has; it’s a slow camera. It’s great for studio, outdoor portraits, weddings, landscapes, etc, but not for sports because of its speed.

Lots of photographers think the best combination is a low megapixel camera that does really well with ISO. In theory, lower megapixel allows each photo site to collect more data and would produce better quality photos. However, once Jim started using the Nikon D800 with 36 megapixels, he found that when you have that many megapixels you capture so much data about the scene that you’re shooting that you can run a LOT of noise reduction because you have so much detail to work with. So even if the Nikon D800 is slightly worse on low-light straight out of the camera, Jim would still rather pick the D800 image because in Photoshop, it can handle a LOT of editing and still hold up with good image quality.

[12:50]  As a portrait photographer, I’ve been looking for good outdoor settings and found a cool alley, but because of the buildings surrounding it, the lighting is bad. What should I do?

Shooting in an alley is easier than shooting anywhere else because you’re already at neutral (by “neutral lighting” we mean that the sun isn’t coming across someone’s face and leaving heavy, dark shadows on one side), and you just need to add some interesting highlights. Just like in the park in the shade of a tree, it is easier to expose a neutral exposure on your photos. You don’t want the hard light, even in broad daylight. If you’ve found an alley, you’ve struck gold! Having buildings all around to throw shadows is perfect! An alley is great for flash photography as you can use the flash to get an interesting highlight.

[15:21] I’m looking to get a wider range lens and thinking about getting a fixed 50mm lens. Would this be a good choice?

If you go look at any professional photographer and see what’s on their camera, it’s rarely the 50mm lens. But new photographers are often told to go get the 50mm f/1.8 lens – why is this? Your kit lens is usually a variable aperture between f/3.5(zoomed out) and f/5.6(zoomed in), so the 50mm lens is great for your next lens once you’re ready to move on from the kit lens because it is sharp, cheap ($100-$120), has a fast aperture, and every brand has them.

However, the 50mm lens is not something you see with a wedding, professional, or serious photographer, because it’s not as usable of a focal length. 50mm is too zoomed in for a wide shot, and not quite telephoto enough to get the close-in shots. Focal length is doing more than just zooming in and out or changing how the photo looks – it changes how the model feels. With the 50mm you are too close to the model, and this makes them feel very uncomfortable which in turn translates to a less-than-ideal facial expression and a ruined photo. Additionally, focal length controls the way the person looks; it’s not just a matter of laziness of walking in and out.

[22:20] I’m shooting outdoor events at night. What is the trick to focusing in low light? Do I use the flash to freeze the action or should I crank up the ISO to get a faster shutter speed to freeze the action?

Skip the flash so you can capture the ambiance of what’s happening. For outdoor events at night, in ambient lighting, using a flash will wash everything out. Yes, you’ll freeze the subject, but it won’t look good. You need to go for the ISO. It wouldn’t be surprising if you’re using an ISO speed of 1600 (or even higher) in these conditions.

In a really dim environment you may have a hard time getting your lens to focus. In this case you need to find something high contrast, and  put your focus point on the contrast in order to help the camera be able to focus. However, if it’s too dark you may have to switch to manual focus (which you don’t want to do because it is hard to get the focus right with a moving subject).

[27:18] I need to buy new memory cards and I’m unsure of what to buy. What do I look for when I purchase?

Click here for an in-depth discussion about buying memory cards for your DSLR camera.

[33:05] I’m looking for a database in which I can store high quality photos and other documents and have it be searchable by people in different locations.

There isn’t a way yet for you to host files and have people search them as if they are on their local machine. But a good alternative solution for this is to use a Dropbox account. You will have to pay for it (it is cloud based storage) but  then all the files you store there will sync to the local machine that is accessing it. This works really well for long distances. For shorter distances (i.e. in the same office) a Netgear ReadyNAS is a great solution (and can hold up to 12 terabytes of storage).

[37:08] Prizes for reviews!

The winner is ksteele23384.  If that’s your username on iTunes, email Jim at prize@improvephotography.com to get your free online photography class.

To be entered to win the online photography class each week, simply go to this podcast on iTunes and write a one or two sentence review.  While they appreciate a a 5-star review, any review will get you entered to win a class for free (a $98 value).

[37:54] Doodads of the Week

Dustin’s pick of the week is the Spider Camera Holster. This is a belt that you strap on that has clasps to attach the camera to so you can carry the camera on your hip instead of on your shoulder or in your bag. It costs around $130 for a one-camera setup, and about $200 for a two-camera setup.

Jim’s doodad of the week is the Stuck on Earth app for iOS which lets you search for the best photo locations on the planet. Photographers all over the world tag great photo locations and from these, you can create a list of locations and you’ve got great places to head to. This keeps you from wasting your entire trip looking for good places to shoot.

 

Comments from the I.P. Community

  1. Jenna says

    It looks like Stuck on Earth is for iPad only? That makes me very sad. Even if I had an iPad, I doubt I would take it out on photo excursions very often.

  2. Dana says

    I got a 7D almost a year ago but it was an upgrade from a Samsung digicam, which was nice while it lasted (you could adjust shutter speed, aperture, and several other things–not bad for the price), but the battery door had broken after about five years’ worth of use. Since I had to also access my card through the battery door, it wasn’t worth fussing with tape. So in my case the upgrade was justified. I figure the 7D will be a good workhorse for several years yet.

  3. says

    I disagree with the comment about the 50mm prime being a poor choice for a serious photographer. While I can see why it wouldn’t be a good choice for weddings, for the work that I do (high school seniors, pets, and fashion/editorial) it is amazing! You are not too close to the model at all, and it is a long enough focal length to not distort the model’s face. It’s my most used lens!

  4. Caleb says

    I’ve been looking at getting a 50mm lens, and was glad to have read your perspective on it. However, I just read Melanie’s comment and am a little confused.
    My real question, though, is if you don’t recommend buying the 50mm, then what would you recommend?

    Thanks for the articles! I’m new at this and love all the info. I have a T3i.

    Thanks.

  5. Stacey Mitchell says

    Hey guys, Why did this pod cast sound like canon has no upgrade in sensor size on the market? I admit the Canon cameras you mentioned may have small differences in features but don’t forget the logic processors ( some have two) in the more expensive ones.
    Why did you not mention the 6D or the 5d mark3 ? So far you both have been even and impartial and I like that. Keep up the great show and instruction , Thanks for giving me a platform as well.

  6. says

    @Stacey Mitchell – Again, there ARE differences between these cameras, such as the processor, weather sealing, variable angle LCDs, etc. That’s not the point.

    The point is that we hate seeing people spend over $1,000 to upgrade their camera to a 7d or 60D and not realize that the sensor is the same and thus the image quality is the same.

    There ARE good reasons to choose these other cameras, but better image quality is not one of those reasons.

    You also mentioned the 6D and 5d III. Those are FANTASTIC cameras! In fact, Dustin just bought a 6D yesterday. Our point is not that Canon doesn’t make good cameras–not at all. In fact, I think they are superior to Nikon in many respects.

  7. Stacey Mitchell says

    Jim, Thank you for the response. After I listened a second time to your podcast I realized you were speaking of folks using the Canon system and expecting a bit more from from a new camera than they would get if staying with the same sensor size. The upgrade to the ” full frame” ( really 35mm ) is a big dollar layout. All of us try to find the best bang for our buck. The cost verses return is something that has always been a problem for me. I do photography simply for the joy of it and it seems the more I learn the more I think I need equipment.. I have always thought of a good camera as one that will allow me to paint with light. Thank you and Dustin for your teaching and insight.

  8. Arthur says

    Thanks Jim and Dustin for the great answer to my question regarding the upgrade form myD90. I just saw a video comparing the specs on the D7100 to the D600 and D800. Surprisingly it looks like many of the D800 features including ISO range will be in the D7100 at 1100 bucks. Now I wonder about the power of the screw motor to drive my 80-200 vs the D800 and also what you guys said about noise levels between a DX sensor and the FX sensors. Just curious as to your thoughts about the low light performance expected from the D7100. Arghhhhhh what do I do?

    You guys are awesome!!!! Thanks in advance

  9. says

    Hi guys – I’m new to the podcast and to photography. I really enjoy hearing your tips and ideas to get the best from such an enjoyable hobby. Keep up the good work. PS just downloaded the Stuck on Earth app and it contains some good ideas; and its also reassuring to know I can add some better looking pictures to some places!
    Thanks
    Rich

  10. says

    super simple question – feel dumb asking…cant seem to locate you on itunes to leave feedback and be entered in the drawing for a class…can you guide me a bit (not an itunes regular…)

    Thanks!

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