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10 Tips for Sharper Photos (Even when zoomed in)

Photo by Jim Harmer
10 Tips for Sharper Photos.  #9 was the most helpful for me.  I never thought about that before.

Daily readers of this site already know how I feel about sharpness.   Sharpness is vital to professional photographers who make large prints, but beginners probably will not notice much of a difference between a razor-sharp photo that they view on a computer screen compared to a fairly-sharp photo that they view on a computer screen.  Nonetheless, photographers are crazy about sharpness, and I am too.

Sharpness Tip #1: Shoot like a sharp-shooter

Anyone who has ever shot a gun or bow and arrow knows that the key to shooting well is finding a firm shooting foundation.  Shooters do this by stabilizing themselves against a bench, using a monopod, or standing in the most stable positions.  Not surprisingly, photographers should use the same advice.  If you haven't taken a minute to consider whether your photography posture is solid, think about it for a minute and decide how to improve your stability.  If you don't regularly use a tripod, just do it!

Sharpness Tip #2: Don't zoom to the extremes

I have never tested a lens that is sharpest at the extremes of the zoom range.  For example, if you shoot a 75-300mm lens, you will get sharper photos at 280mm than 300mm.  The Nikon 70-200mm lens shoots sharpest at 135mm.  I'm sure there are exceptions to this rule, but I haven't seen them personally.  Almost all lenses are sharper somewhere between the extremes of the zoom range.

This is especially important if you are shooting a less expensive zoom lens or a kit lens.  Spend just a minute and take a picture of a newspaper taped to the wall across from you at different focal lengths and apertures.  You're likely to find quite a variation in sharpness levels depending on the focal length.

Sharpness Tip #3: Determine your sharpest apertures

Just as the zoom dramatically impacts sharpness, so to does the aperture.

Many photographers learn that the sharpest aperture on many lenses is f/7.1 or f/8, but it totally depends on the lens.  That is a good general rule, but it is foolish to accept this as 100% true.  Just take a minute to lock your lens on a tripod and shoot a subject at all of your aperture levels to see what photo is sharpest.  If you are a landscape photographer, you will likely notice that many wide-angle lenses are significantly sharper at slightly higher apertures, because they are made that way.  This test will only take you 5 minutes to perform and will improve your photos for the life of the lens.

To test sharpness, make sure to shoot from a distance that you commonly shoot that lens, shoot in lighting conditions similar to what you will shoot in the field, and do common-sense things like shoot on a tripod with a cable release and mirror lock-up.

This test was performed on a Nikkor 70-200mm lens at 200mm.
This test was performed on a Nikkor 70-200mm lens at 200mm.

Sharpness Tip #4: Do Your Output Sharpening Last

Unfortunately, many photographers use the sharpness slider in Camera Raw or Lightroom first thing. I strongly discourage this technique because sharpening should match the medium, or be applied selectively.

Photos should be sharpened differently for the use on the web as they are for print.  For example, when saving a photo that will be displayed on a computer (like posting a photo to Facebook, for instance), less sharpening is needed because a screen is a sharp output medium.  When saving a photo for matte paper, more sharpening should be applied than when printing on glossy paper because the matte paper soaks the ink more than the glossy does.

Also, a photo that will be seen small should be sharpened differently than photos that will be seen large.  It just doesn't make sense to sharpen before finishing the editing process.  This way, you'll be able to go back and re-sharpen the photo in a different way when you want to use that photo for a new purpose without needing to re-do all of the other edits done in Photoshop.

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Sharpness Tip #5: Stop mashing your shutter button

In my photography workshops, I see many photographers smash their shutter button with more force than they would smash a cockroach.  Mashing the shutter button will torque the camera at the critical moment when the photo is recording the scene.  The proper way to press a shutter button is to simply roll your finger back across the button.


Sharpness Tip #6: Pick up the manual for your LENS

The lens manual will tell you whether or not to use image stabilization (vibration reduction for us Nikon folks) when the camera is on a tripod.  Some lenses should have vibration reduction ON when using a tripod, and other lenses should have image stabilization turned off when on a tripod.

Lenses made in the last couple of years will make this switch for you, but you'd probably be surprised by looking at the manual for your lens to find that many lenses that you think may be turning this off for you… are not.  The only way to know is to check the lens manual.

Sharpness Tip #7: Decrease Your ISO

Photographers know that increasing your ISO increases the noise in the photo, but their knowledge usually stops there.  Did you also realize that increasing the ISO also dramatically reduces the visible detail in the photo?  When I say “dramatically,” I mean dramatically!

When you're in a situation where you have to increase your ISO beyond where you're comfortable, consider adding flash or moving to an area with better lighting to produce a sharper shot.

Sharpness Tip #8: Test different copies of a lens

When lenses are created, they are made to certain tolerances.  Especially in the case of lower-end lenses, the tolerances are not precise and allow for size variances.  For this reason, one lens may shoot better on one camera than another.  Make sure the lens is working well for your camera.  If it isn't, you might consider returning the lens and buying another copy of the exact same lens model and see if it works better.

Sharpness Tip #9: Know Your Focus

I've given portfolio reviews to THOUSANDS of photographers in my online photography classes just in the last year.  THOUSANDS!  When they ask me about the sharpness of their photos and how they can improve, the problem is imprecise focus at least 95% of the time.

So here's my recipe for proper focus every time…

#1. Decide if you are shooting an action photo or a photo with a stationary subject.  If you're shooting a moving subject, choose continuous focus (AI servo on Canon or AF-C on Nikon).  If you're shooting a stationary subject like a landscape or a person standing mostly still, choose AF-S on a Nikon or Single Servo on a Canon.

#2. Always choose the focus point yourself.  Don't let the camera decide.  Get used to moving the focus point with the four-way selector on the back of your camera.  If you're shooting a portrait, ALWAYS place the focus on the eye of the person closest to the camera.  On the nose or face or body of the person is not good enough.  Always focus on the eye.  If you're shooting a landscape, generally focus one-third up from the bottom of the frame, but if you have a strong foreground element, you may want to focus closer.

#3. Once you've focused, be extremely careful not to sway forward or backward at all.  When shooting with a fast lens at a wide f-stop, even a slight movement will move the focus before the shot.

#4. Be sure not to focus too close to the lens.  Each lens has a close focus distance, and the camera manufacturers like to push the envelope with this distance.  I usually find that if I focus right at the closest point where the lens will still focus, the result is a blurry shot.  Back up a little bit from the closest you can be to the subject and you'll always improve the result.

Sharpness Tip #10: Upgrade your shutter button

Less expensive cameras come with either a metal or plastic shutter button.  It does the job just fine, but it encourages the poor habit of “clicking” or “mashing” the shutter button.  More expensive cameras like the 5D Mark III, Nikon D810, etc, have squishy shutter buttons with a rubber coating on top so that the press of the button does not vibrate the camera as much.

For only a few dollars, you can pick up a rubber pad to fit over your shutter button which will solve this problem and upgrade your shutter button for you.

It can be tough to tell how sharp a shot is when looking at the back of the camera. Zoom in all the way on the eye and the difference is easy to see.
It can be tough to tell how sharp a shot is when looking at the back of the camera. Zoom in all the way on the eye and the difference is easy to see.

Bonus Tip: Zoom to the Eyes!

The best way to know if you have a sharp photo while shooting is to zoom in on a picture you've just taken all the way to 100%.  Zoom in on the eyes and see if you can see the eyelashes.  If the eyelashes are just a clump of black, the photo is not sharp.  If you can see each hair in the eyelash, you have a sharp shot.

If you have more sharpness tips, please share it with the rest of the Improve Photography community by leaving a comment below.

152 thoughts on “10 Tips for Sharper Photos (Even when zoomed in)”

  1. I’ve gotten into the habit of only using center focus point, therefore I’m recomposing the shot once I grab focus on the subjects eye. Wondering if the slight movement of recomposing is affecting my sharpness

  2. I’m really struggling to get a sharp image. I’m using manual focus on a canon 6D EO, with a EF 24-105mm lens, on a tripod, rigged up to a laptop so I can shoot from there. I’m shooting products and for some reason I cannot get a sharp image.
    Only a few days ago I used manual focus on a baby and got sharp eyelash detail perfectly. Any ideas? Could this be a fault with the lens? Do I suddenly need glasses?!
    HELP!

  3. I have a Canon 5D Mark III coupled with a Canon 500 mm EF Lens. My tripod is a Gitzo and the head is a Wimberley so I have a pretty stable base. I take long distance pictures of birds which requires me to blow them for viewing. The images are not as sharp as I need them to be. I have been reading about the effects of the low pass filter and how it softens the image. Is there any truth to this and if I have the camera modified, will it improve my images. Canon has not even commented on the filter.

  4. I see some increase in sharpness when I enable front shutter curtain with mirror up. On the Nikon that’s D5.

  5. Marilyn J. Sallee

    Thank you so much. I have a problem with this and now I can use your tips to improve on my photography.

  6. I like to use my cable trigger release when shooting landscapes. This insures I’m not “mashing!” If I don’t have my cable trigger release with me, I use the 2 Second Delay which gets my hands off the camera before the shutter opens. =))

  7. Great article and thanks for the tips – I want to see every eyelash so I’m going to put these tips to the test!

  8. Darlene Pollard

    Your site was recommended to me by a friend who is a photographer. I have found it to be very helpful. I am trying to experiment with the manual settings, as you suggested and have seen more flexibility with my pictures. Thank you for offering valuable information –

  9. Michael van Kal

    Thanks for the fantastic tips.
    I have a question.
    Sharpness tips “9” paragraph 4.
    I don’t understand this is it possible to explain this for me.
    We went to do some bird photos and 90% of my picture are not sharp.
    I am not sure what I did wrong.
    I have a Canon700D and was using a Canon 70-300 lens on AV setting.
    I think my F stop was too high.
    When I looked at the setting on my computer most of the unclear shots were with F16 ISO 100 Speed varied according to the camera setting.?

    1. I am no expert……I shoot alot of birds and usually shoot at F8 which seems to be my sweet spot

    2. For birds I tend to use shutter priority so that I dictate the shutter speed. Birds move a lot, even when sitting so I find it best to focus on freezing their motion at 1/800 or 1/1000. I also put the camera in zone focused AI Servo and use back button focus.

    3. If you’re shooting birds I’d probably use the TV feature (where you set the shutter speed). F16 at ISO 100 seems to be way too low an ISO (Unless you’re shooting in a blinding desert or snow field) and F16 is probably too small. Cameras should be good at ISO 400-800 and you can easily lower your aperture to F8 to get a quicker shutter speed.

  10. Thank you so much for this.
    I have been struggling with my photos they are not as sharp as the example above.
    I’m using a 4ti canon, do you think that would be the problem? I’ve been so frustrated with my lack of sharpness that I’m ready to spend the money on the 5D III. Is it me, the camera or the fact that I take a lot of close- ups?
    I’m fairly new on photography but on my way take to the next step.
    I appreciate your opinion.
    Thank you!

    Lyria

    1. @Lyria,

      The Canon T4i is a fantastic camera and should be able to produce very sharp images. I am a non-professional, hobbyist photographer who writes for this website, and my recommendation is not to move on to another camera until you have mastered the one you have. I recommend you go through the beginner articles Jim wrote here. You may also want to check out this article I wrote about beginners getting some help with blurry pictures here.

      I am betting your problem is that you are not using a fast enough shutter speed in your photos. The value your shutter speed should be set to depends entirely on the situation your are in, which is why those articles are great ways for you to learn how to determine that. That said, the lens you are using also plays a role, and after you have read and feel like you understand the articles I have already suggested, read this one about why a “nifty fifty” lens should be the second one a beginner should invest in here.

      Good luck, and keep reading the site as we will have frequent updates and articles that will help you on your journey.

  11. wonderful blog post and helpful tips for sharper photography sharpness…thanks for sharing and step by step details

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